We put down our sleeping bags to wait it out but within minutes the smoke had engulfed us.

In 2014, my partner, Kia, and I left our jobs and went on a round-the‑world trip. I then carved out a career in travel writing and photography. The Arctic Circle trail had been on my bucket list for 10 years. I’d done high-altitude treks in Nepal and Pakistan, and relaxed day-hiking in Yorkshire, where I live. I love the outdoors and escaping into a simple routine of food, water and sleep.

In July 2019, I had two weeks to spare, so I booked the trip. I travelled 2,000 miles to west Greenland to see the 100 glacial lakes, tundra greenery and wilderness with moraine left behind by glaciers. Greenlanders spend weeks out there fishing and hunting, but this trek takes about 10 days. The 100-mile trail is one of the longest signposted and least trekked trails in Greenland. You’re guided by red circles painted on stones and on the eight huts dotted across the trail.

Continue reading…